Saturday, November 6, 2010

Dodged a Bullet

Hey all,

As promised - I'm writing to let you all know that I'm safe and sound on the other side of the storm. In reality, Tomas brought a lot of rain, but not nearly as much as was predicted for Port-au-Prince. Certain parts of the country, specifically the southwest, were hit much harder - but luckily those areas are much less heavily populated than the capitol.

Working at the Embassy through the storm was a fun/interesting experience - if quiet. I spent most of the day surfing the net and eating Halloween oreos. However, lessons learned from the earthquake - it's much, much better to be safe than sorry.

Alright, I'm off to start the weekend routine. A fun update coming this weekend, I promise!

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Tropical Storm Tomas

Hey all,

I know this blog hasn't been updated in about forever, so sorry to use this occasion to do so (plug: MORE FUN UPDATES COMING!) but I figured this would be the easiest way to let everyone know that I am safe, sound and well protected in advance of the storm.

Plans have been made to move essential Embassy employees to our housing compound near the Embassy and I'll be working through the night on an Emergency Task Force at the Embassy. Needless to say, I'll be fine and well protected. Communications might go down for a bit depending on the severity of the storm, so I wanted to get this message out now.

All of us on the Task Force will be working hard over the next few days to help both Haitians and Americans in Haiti stay safe and get any help they need. Please keep the hundreds of thousands of Haitians still in tents in your thoughts - though I am fortunate to have a safe place to go this weekend, many of them do not.

I promise to update as soon as the storm passes and we have internet access. Here's hoping Tomas will turn West.

Neil

Monday, September 13, 2010

Paradise, Found.

Disclaimer: Started this update last week but it took forever to upload the photos - sorry it's a bit dated...

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Let me begin with the usual apologies for my lack of updates - life continues to be very busy and fun,
making finding the time to blog a challenge. I'm working on getting better, I promise.

I just returned from an amazing Labor Day Weekend - so here's the update:

Knowing that we had a 3-day weekend, some friends from the Embassy and I decided that we wanted to head out-of-town on some type of adventure. We settled on Ile a Vache (literally, Island of the Cows) - off the southern coast of Haiti. Map here:

I immediately took on the role of group organizer, or cruise director as I was (sometimes) affectionately known, and our small group of 8 people eventually turned into 21.

So, early on Saturday morning, our convoy of 6 SUVs set out from Port-au-Prince headed south to Les Cayes. Getting out of PAP was, as always, a challenge - but once through the city and out the other side, the road opens up and one really gets a sense of the amazing topography of this country. It was about a 4.5 hour drive to Les Cayes - first through the mountains and then along the coast. I rode shotgun in my friend Blake and Sara's car - and we, along with their dog Oakley - held up the rear of the convoy. We ate snacks, played trivial pursuit, laughed a lot and marveled at the beautiful countryside. For once, I'll let some pictures do the talking:


Your standard Haitian 18-Wheeler - you'll notice the live sheep hanging on the side
Mountains outside of Port-au-Prince
Lush vegetation coming into the southern coast 
The six-car convoy

After spending the morning in the car, with frequent bathroom breaks, we arrived in Les Cayes at around 1 in the afternoon. Having no idea where we were going, we drove through the city - a very neat city, by the way - making frequent u-turns, which are always interesting with 6-cars on a market day. Anyway, we eventually made it to the dock where two Boston Whalers were waiting to take us and our stuff over to Ile a Vache.

Just as we were leaving Les Cayes, the sky grew black and it started to thunder and lightning in the distance - I think we were all wondering what we had gotten ourselves into. But, after a quick 30-minute boat ride, all of our fears were assuaged as we approached the island - sun still shining.

We pulled-up to the dock at the resort and were immediately greeted with rum punch as our bags were unloaded. Vacation had begun.

Ile a Vache as two resorts, Port Morgan and Abaka Bay. We chose the latter and I could not have been happier with our decision. The resort was located directly on the water - my room had a deck and then you stepped right down to the sand. In addition to the rooms, there was also a bar, outdoor and indoor dining area, and a sort of recreational space - all-in-all perfect for a weekend getaway.

The next two days were spent eating amazing food, drinking rum punches and Prestige (the Haitian beer), relaxing, playing soccer/frisbee/volleyball, kayaking and hiking. Ile a Vache is the quintessential Caribbean island - with 2 resorts, a swamp area, deserted beaches, a few mountains, a very picturesque town and lots of neat caves for exploring. Not to mention a sunken pirate ship. Again, I could go into much more, but the photos can do the talking:

Our own private cove

Traditional fishing boat for our meals
Abaka Bay on the left and our cove - taken from our hike across the island
Looking across the island from the top of the hill
Beautiful house overlooking the ocean
Looking out over the harbor from the town, resort pet included.
Church on the water
Fishing boats in the town
The beach at Abaka Bay
View from the deck of our room
And again (no special effects, just a standard photo)
The dock - my favorite photo
Looking back at the resort from the dock
Yours truly - looking graceful as always
 Unfortunately, after 2 amazing days it was time to head back to real life. We divided up into an "early boat" and a "late boat" for the departure. If you know anything about me, you'll know which boat I was on.

Our significantly smaller convoy - 3 cars this time - left Les Cayes around 2:30pm for the drive back, stopping at an old French fort on the way home:

The fort at the end of a peninsula - begging to be explored 
View from inside the fort
Driving back through the mountains on the new road
We arrived back in Port-au-Prince around 7:30pm and I'm proud to say I drove my friend's car the entire way home - an introduction to Haitian driving (just in time for my new car...stay tuned for that update).

There's so much more to say about the weekend but I hope this begins to give you some idea. I really am falling in love with this country and the people - as you can see, with just a little patience there isn't much not to love.

Monday, August 16, 2010

A day in the life...

So, I just spent about an hour writing my first long update about my day job and accidentally deleted the entire thing. Lesson learned: save often. Okay, beer me, here we go again...

I promised in my first novel-length email update (that each one of you read with hawk-like intensity) that I would spend this update talking about my job - you know, the reason I'm in Haiti - so without further ado:

5:47am. "Soothing" alarm on the Blackberry. Let's be honest - there's nothing soothing about 5:47am. After rolling around and moaning for a few minutes, I'm up. Showered, shaved and dressed in big boy clothes (no more jeans and polo shirts, it's suit and tie everyday folks), I'm out the door, usually running, by 6:28am and into the waiting Suburban. As you know, there are 6 apartments in my building - 5 of which are currently occupied - so we have our own dedicated Suburban for the 25-minute morning commute to the Embassy. We pass the time telling stories, sharing weekend/evening adventures, or silently catching-up on emails - depending on moods.

Baring any major disruption - ie cattle on the road causing traffic chaos - we're at the Embassy around 6:55am and I'm at my desk by 7am. After dropping stuff and logging into the computer, my first stop is the cafeteria.

I love breakfast. I especially love breakfast here mostly owing to the bacon, egg and cheese baguette. It's pretty much how it sounds - a deliciously gooey, crunchy, greasy combination on a baguette. I've learned the hard way that eating an entire one will cause paralysis and the need to assume the fetal position under-desk by 8:30am. Thus, it's either split or half saved for later. Don't worry - I still cover my portion in hot sauce and ketchup. Luckily for my waistline, our cafeteria also has some pretty great oatmeal that they make in a huge kettle, so I've learned to alternate mornings. A fruit salad is thrown in every once-in-a-while for good measure. I will say, however, that I've sweet-talked the lovely cafeteria ladies, using my off-the-chain creole skills, into putting tomato into my bacon, egg and cheese baguette and blending fruits (usually banana or mango) into my oatmeal - no small feat and special additions usually reserved only for the very best Haitian customers. Lunch ladies and I have always shared a special bond.

Armed with my breakfast of choice and HUGE cup of coffee, I'm ready to take on the day. I usually take breakfast to my desk, using the time catch-up on any outstanding issues or emails, and take my chosen spot on "the line" a little before 8am. Our office is a huge rectangle with offices around 3 sides and one long wall of windows (38, I think), with cubes in the middle. The room is divided between NIV (Non-Immigrant Visas), IV (Immigrant Visas) and ACS (American Citizen Services). My section, NIV, takes approximately 15 windows (5 for Officers, 10 for Foreign Service Nationals, FSNs) and the cubes/offices behind those windows. My own goal is to be at the window and open for business by 8am.

I should take a moment to describe the visa process from the applicant's point of view, I'll try to make it quick and dirty:

1) Applicant fills out online visa application form. Port-au-Prince recently transferred from paper to electronic applications and, though there have been some headaches, the process has certainly streamlined our end. After submitting the form, the applicant prints out a barcoded "receipt" to bring with them to the Embassy.
2) After submitting the application, the applicant is able to use our online tool to schedule their interview day. Our goal is to reduce "wait time" to a minimum - that is, time of completing application to first available appointment time, but that obvious varies based on number of applicants and number of officers interviewing.
3) Applicant goes to a local branch of a Haitian bank to pay the application fee - currently $140 (a huge sum here and an automatic filter for types of applicants than can even afford to apply). The money is deposited into a State Dept account and the applicant is given a receipt to bring with them as proof of payment.
4) On their assigned day, applicants stream into the Embassy from all over the country - usually starting at the crack of dawn. They are screened by security and let into our waiting room.
5) Applicants are called, one-by-one, to an FSN window where their barcode is scanned, application information and proof of payment verified, fingerprinted and have their pictures taken (if they haven't uploaded them digitally).
6) After this, they line-up for a chance to see yours truly.

Once I start at the window, I call applicants up one-by-one, or in family groups, to my window. I scan their barcode and use a scanner to verify one finger - then begin the interview. This is crux of my current job in the Embassy.

Essentially, we are doing a number of things simultaneously in the interview. Since these are non-immigrant visas, one of our major jobs is to ensure that each applicant, to the best of our knowledge, will return to Haiti after their trip to the US. In fact, the way the law is written, the burden is on each applicant to prove that they will, in fact, return to their home country and we are to assume that every applicant is an intending immigrant unless they prove otherwise (more info: http://travel.state.gov/visa/frvi/denials/denials_1361.html). As you can imagine, this is highly specialized depending on each case and is, in most cases, nearly impossible to tell with 100% certainty that a person will come back.

Again, it is highly individualized, but there are certain patterns we look for to help - including family and economic ties to Haiti, previous travel, ties to the United States, etc. But at the end of the day, it's largely based on our own analysis of the applicant's situation and our belief that they will, or will not, return to the US. For example, a subsistance farmer with barely enough money to purchase a one-way ticket to Miami is probably not going to be able/likely to stay in a hotel for 2 weeks and return to Haiti. But likewise, a very wealthy Haitian with their entire family in the US might also have very little reason to return to return after their stay in the US is done. Everything is fluid and we see everything. Everything. The standard question I usually have running in my head as a barometer - does this story make sense?

The other important thing to keep in mind is that we are doing this for a reason. They could have a computer process all the documents and issue or refuse the visa. The idea is that, though we are certainly not always perfect, we can add a human dimension - either compassion or intellect - that will hopefully provide an extra layer of security as well as more human view of each application.

However, that is just one of the things we're responsible for evaluating. In addition to their immigrant intent, we also are evaluating if they have, or potentially could, commit a crime in the US. We need to verify that they haven't previously broken any US laws, immigration or otherwise. Are they traveling to the US under false pretenses - for example as a tourist but with the real intention of enrolling in public school? Do we have any reason to believe they could be a threat to the US? Are they applying using fake documents? These are just a few of the things we're checking for...

AND, we're verifying and checking all of the documents they've submitted electronically and brought in hard copy - bank documents, marriage and birth certificates, previous passports and visas, job letters, etc - while simultaneously speaking with the applicants in creole or french, taking notes in english, and trying to make a decision in the neighborhood of 2 minutes per applicant. It's a rush.

As I'm currently the only full-time officer on the line, the others are TDY (temporary officers on loan from other Embassies), and since I have the language training (the others are doing their interviews in translation with the help of FSNs) I'm doing somewhere in the neighborhood of 70-80 interviews/day. In total, we usually see somewhere between 200-250 applicants/day at the Embassy.

After an exhausting morning, I'm usually off "the line" between 12-1pm - whenever the last applicant is interviewed for the day. Then, the rest of my day is free, which is a great feeling. I usually get back to my desk, catch-up on emails, grab lunch with colleagues or eat at my desk depending on my workload, and start the desk-work.

Well - what would a DiBiase update be without another mention of food. Our cafeteria turns out some pretty delicious lunch food as well - there are 2 hot entrees to choose from, some type of rice, a vegetable, and fried plantains that is the standard fare for about $5. It's way more than I can, or should, eat in one sitting. In addition, there's all kinds of pizza, hamburgers, chicken/fish burgers, soup, salad bar, etc. There's also a restaurant between our compound and the UN compound that serves a bit more upscale fare with a cool vibe and a huge buffet across the street that I've yet to try. Needless to say, I'm not starving.

After lunch, I work on any background info that needs done on my cases - investigating suspicious stories/documents, verifying my applicants against various databases that check biographic info, fingerprints, facial recognition, etc.

In addition, we all have projects in our portfolios that we use this time to complete. Never one to be called an underachiever, I've already taken control of Consular Outreach (getting outside of PAP to Americans/Haitians who need our services), Post Language (language training for FSOs and their families), Consular Happy Hours and I was just elected to fill the Secretary vacancy on the American Employees' Association at the Embassy (shocking). Again needless to say, there's plenty to fill the afternoon.

We're officially done at 3:30pm and there's a shuttle that leaves at that time - so most people clear out. I usually finish sometime between 3:30pm-4pm, depending on how long I was on the line and my workload for the afternoon. Then it's off to the gym or pool for a workout and I'm on the 5pm shuttle home. Traffic is much worse at night, but I can generally be home in 30-35 minutes, but it has taken longer than an hour - all dependent on traffic.

At home, I change out of my workout clothes, unpack my work clothes - and either settle in with a book/movie, invite friends over or go to a friend's house for dinner, or head out to meet friends at a restaurant. Tonight, I settled in, ate some of Odeline's (you'll meet her in the next update) quiche and salad, drank some wine, wrote this update, took a break to hang out with some friends upstairs, and am already getting tired.

I'm usually in bed sometime around 10pm, ready to start the next day all over again at 5:47am.

Well, I think this update might even be longer than the last, but at least it's not taking up space in your inbox. Read at your leisure and let me know what you think! Even though I'm terrible at getting back to people, I love to hear from everyone and what you're up to. Hopefully this gave you a good idea of my weekdays here in PAP - weekends are a whole different animal, but that's another update.

Ciao for now.

Welcome to the blog!

Friends and Family,

Welcome to blog post #1! Hopefully this will be an easier to keep everyone updated on my life here in Haiti without novel-length updates in your inboxes. I'll do my best to keep this updated semi-regularly - as things come-up I'll just plan to add them on here, so no real schedule. Island time, baby!

Alright, first real update coming your way...